Thursday, April 10, 2014

Four Days, Three Countries, Two people, One Long Journey

Our journey started with a week's vacation traveling throughout Costa Rica before returning home for three days.  The next chapter began when we moved to Germany, traveling a total of 7,303 miles.

Before I get ahead of myself (having seemingly done so), I will backtrack to April 9th - the start of our vacation in Costa Rica.  The plan, four friends fly to Costa Rica, rent a car, drive to three different cities and see as much as physically possible along the way.  The flight to San Jose was painless, after landing we took a quick van ride to Vamos to pick up our rental car.  We were ready to head to our first destination on the Caribbean Coast, Cahuita.

Driving through San Jose was a baptism by fire inasmuch as it was a foreshadowing microcosm of what driving would be like throughout Costa Rica.  Having rented a GPS, the task was easier said than done, and we quickly learned that our estimated time of arrival was better calculated by doubling the time originally projected.  For example, our two-hour drive from San Jose to Cahuita took approximately five hours.  We were fortunate enough that there was someone at the Magellan Inn to let us in because the gate had been locked for the evening.  After a long day of traveling and a seemingly never ending drive, it was easy to call it a night and rest up for our hike through the Cahuita National Park.

The hotel concierge
The following morning we were awoken by the resounding, yet, rhythmic calls of the tropical birds.  The sky was grey, the ground wet, and the Caribbean heat was temporarily quenched by the overnight rain showers.  Our day started off with a complimentary breakfast of fresh fruits and toasted rolls with jam.  The occasional breeze carried the calming perfume of the local flora, distracting one from the increasingly cumbersome humidity.

Given the schizophrenic weather patterns of the Caribbean Coast, it was safe to assume that rain would likely be in the forecast, whether it was morning, afternoon, evening, or all the above - there is no safety in weather so unpredictable.  Anticipating inclement weather, I decided it was better to leave my camera at the hotel (hence the lack of pictures).

Cahuita National Park was a short drive down the coastline and is a "must visit," if traveling to Cahuita - the surrounding landscape encompasses a beautiful, serene sandy beach on one side, flowing into a wildlife oasis of forest and mangroves.  Upon arrival, we were inundated with the charades of "private tour guides," who lurk just outside park grounds.  We politely declined their self-proclaimed expertise and decided to trail blaze on our own.  If we were to take a guided tour, it would be more prudent to coordinate through the hotel, and if snorkeling, a guide is required (also schedule through hotel).

Within the first 10 minutes of our hike we encountered our first animal, a yellow eyelash viper - tucked away on a tree trunk at a height where we could comfortably observe from the trail.  This is a relatively rare sighting as eyelash vipers are a nocturnal reptile.  Further down the trail, we stumbled upon two coati foraging various niches and burrows found alongside the path.  After a few minutes of observing the coati, a cantankerous group of tourists came roaring up from behind, scaring the coati away.

To avoid further disturbances from this group, we picked up the pace until we saw the next group of tourist gathering on a bridge.  The group was small and taking a distinct interest in the surrounding tree canopies.  As we approached, we could hear the leaves of the trees rustle, branches bending, and then we heard the unmistakable grunt of howler monkeys.  There were eight black howler monkeys total, two of which were carrying a baby, and after ample observation, the troop absconded.    Later, we came across a lone white-throated capuchin traversing the trees adjacent to the trail, but soon escaped into the depths of the forest.

Having seen an abundance of wildlife early on was enough to inspire optimism that a sloth sighting was imminent.  However, much to our dismay, this was not the case.  Instead, we were blindsided with the harsh realities of our own unpreparedness for the hike.

Our "short hike" turned into an extensive trek during the hottest part of the afternoon.  There is a litany of lessons learned from our adventure in Costa Rica, but the most important one take away from our first day - always hike with an extra pair of socks.  

We finished the day with a quick walk down to Playa Negra, the weather wasn't the greatest but the beach was nonetheless as beautiful as it was empty.

Playa Negra

The sunniest it got while at the beach

Before calling it a night, we confirmed our much anticipated day two activity, a trip to the Jaguar Rescue Center.


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